Fan controllers for case with door (help please!)

[Midlandhero]

Hi Folks.

I've got a coolermaster 110b case with the hinged door covering the bays. I'm just wondering if anyone can recommend some good fan controlling item that can reduce the sound of my neon akasa fans, under the front grill.

Obviously, I can't fit a rheobus, so i'd appreciate any other suggestions for something that can be fitted flush in one of the bays, or some internal controller, that can still look pretty cool.

Any good suggestions and links to products would be brilliant.

Cheers,

Midlandhero:D

[Alan]

I have a 110B and I use a Pyramid V (http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/product.php?view=3707) available here.

I use it to control the two front fans and a fan on a Zalman bracket for the Graphics card heatsink.

It works pretty well and, so far, it's never run the fans at full speed so it cuts the noise down quite a lot.

The second picture here (http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5771) shows the Pyramid V, bottom right of the window.

[Gordy]

You can fit a rheobus u just need to recess the knobs so they fit :)

The other option is to use a pci slot bus its a lot tidier and still does the job :)

[Midlandhero]

Nice suggestions Gordy, but what make of rheobus would let you recess the dials, and more to the point, how would you do it?

PCI slot bus sounds pretty useful, but where can you get one from?

Pyramid V sounds good, Alan, by the way :p

[Midlandhero]

I would guage the clearance between door and bay to be about 5-7mm max, which does not leave you a lot of room to play with. I tried to bung in a Lian Li RH-600 hard drive caddy, recently, and that was never gonna fit - however much I tried to recess it (plus, it looked cr@p!).

I think the only logical answer will be the Pyramid 5, but having never seen one in operation, I dunno how much difference it'll make. Must be better than the present noise level, mind you - I 'aint had complaints from the neighbours, but it's a bit like living next to a generator!:D

I just wanted some help feeling about for something that is easy to fit, easy to operate, yet still looks aesthetic. :)

Thanks again

[Alan]

Pyramid V is the only option. You have no say in the speed set but it is not prone to running fast. Just make sure the point of the pyramid is not in an air stream as it won't get a good enough control .

[Gordy]

Any rheobus will let u recess the knobs in far enough really look on bit tech for a guide. A pci slot bus is really easy to make have a look here for more info

http://www.hexus.net/review.php?review=394

[Midlandhero]

Alan,

I've taken a look at some Pyramid reviews, and was just wondering what extra cables i'd need to link 3 noisy Akasa blue LED fans (2 front intake and 1 top exhaust), and possibly the case standard rear exhaust fan to this gadget? (and where I can get them)?

I currently have no temperature reading facility, so I was just wondering if you've any suggestions for the best place to fix the pyramid in a 110b?

Thanks for your help - looks a good, simple option on paper to me. :D

[Alan]

The Pyramid has one molex connector which is connected to a PSU molex to supply power for up to 4 fans.

The Pyramid has 2 x 3 pin connectors for connecting fans with 3 pin plugs and it has one molex for connecting to a fan with a molex. If you have more than one molex equipped fan, you will have to use Y splitters and such.

For my 110, the front YS Tech fans have a pass through molex connector so one plugs into the other fan and then plugs into the molex on the Pyramid. The Titan aluminium fan on the Zalman bracket has a 3 pin connector so it connects to the 3 pin connector on the Pyramid.

I had been using two Antec Blue LED fans in the front, and they had a single molex and a connector for fan rpm so I used a Y-splitter for the two fans and coud still plug the connector on the motherboard to get fan speeds.

In other words, it doesn't matter what connectors your fans have, some combination of plugs, adaptors, and splitters will work.

If you look at my photo link, my Pyramid's location is the best compromise as far as I can see. It is way out of the way of airflow but not close to high temp components (the latter means the fans will run slower - and quieter!)

Also, with the window it is easy to check if anything goes wrong with the Pyramid (no light!) - and I think it looks OK as well.

[Midlandhero]

Nice one Al - thanks.

By the way - how did you get that Lian-li temperature display to light up? Was that a straightforward mod, or do they come with that capability anyway?

Looks much better than the basic LCD :)

[Midlandhero]

Actually Alan, while I think about it, I see from your case pics, whilst viewing your Pyramid V that you've also used the cable tidies. I want to get some of these, but do you have to take off the molex connectors to feed the cables through, before replacing them after? Is it easy to do?

Not really a quiet PC related line of enquiry, but I thought i'd try to kill two birds with the one stone, if you like.

:)

[Alan]

The perfectionists will take the molexes off the cables and re-connect but the main run visible was the length of cable before the first molex. All the other parts, (maybe not visible), I used cut bits of split loom between the molex connectors.

Taking of molexes and re-fitting is not recommended unless you are of a certain frame of mind and have particularly nothing else to do with your lfe;)

[Alan]

P.S. The 3½" LIan-Li sensors (T-03 model), I got from Kustom recently and they come with illumination. You can only really read them from straight ahead, 'cos the viewing angle is pants.